This is the Thai island where death is a way of life
My week in The White Lotus's latest idyllic location
I'm ridiculously excited for the new season of The White Lotus! Since they filmed it on Koh Samui, I've been dying to tell you about some of the wonderfully weird things I discovered on this Thai island.
Every season of The White Lotus begins with a dead body at a luxury resort and rewinds to reveal how paradise went wrong.
While scouting locations in Thailand for season three, Mike White, the creator of this hit HBO TV show, ended up in hospital with bronchitis. It was there, drifting in and out of fever dreams, that he conceived a dark tale about death and Eastern religion.
His chosen setting? Koh Samui, Thailand's second-largest island.
I spent a week exploring this island, and discovered why it's the ideal stage for television's most twisted tropical tale.
Where decadence meets the divine
Once a backpackers' haven with basic beach huts, Koh Samui has evolved into something far more complex – and what lies under the surface of this paradise makes it fascinating.
Five-star hotels sit alongside street food vendors on Koh Samui, while meditation retreats border all-night beach parties. It's a study in contrasts – exactly the kind of tension The White Lotus thrives on.
The island's population is predominantly Buddhist, teaching that everything is impermanent and death is life's greatest teacher. Here, mortality isn't hidden away – perfect for a show that opens each season with a body count.
Nothing encapsulates this better than the surprising discovery I made at a temple there.
The mummy monk
The monk sits upright in his glass case, wearing sunglasses.
Named Luang Pho Daeng, he’s been there since 1973, when he died while meditating at age 79. Following his wishes, devotees placed his body in a glass casket at Wat Khunaram temple to inspire future generations about Buddhist teachings.
I'll never forget standing in front of him. His sunglasses – added by well-meaning followers – looked cool, though did little to disguise that this was a man who'd been dead for decades.
Just down the road, tourists were lounging on Lamai Beach's white sand, while here, a monk had turned his passing into a lesson about life.
But not all of Koh Samui's sites are so profound.
From the sacred to the silly
A short drive away at the southern tip of Lamai Beach, I climbed down the rocky coast path to see some famous rocks.
The Hin Ta and Hin Yai (Grandfather and Grandmother) rocks draw crowds for their anatomically suggestive shapes. Standing before them, it's impossible not to giggle.
Yet even these playful formations carry their own dark tale.
Legend says an elderly couple, sailing to find their son a wife, drowned in a storm and transformed into these distinctive stones as proof of their matchmaking mission.
Midnight magic
My most unforgettable Koh Samui moment wasn't in a temple or resort, but during an evening swim.
After a candlelit dinner on the beach with my then-new boyfriend, we dashed into the dark sea (fun fact: it's our 11-year anniversary today!).
As we moved through the water, something amazing happened – tiny sparks of blue-white light swirled around us. Bioluminescent plankton, turning every splash into stardust.
Like swimming through constellations. Pure magic.
On an island full of surprises, this was its most enchanting twist.
The White Lotus wave
In choosing Koh Samui, The White Lotus has found an apt stage for its signature blend of opulence and mortality.
It’s an island where even the most privileged guests might find themselves confronting deeper truths about existence.
The show's power to transform its filming locations is already proven: after season two aired, searches for hotels in Taormina, Sicily shot up by 50% overnight.
Now it's time for Koh Samui's moment in the spotlight. Just remember to look beneath the surface.
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Are you a fan of The White Lotus or have you been to Koh Samui? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments.
The next edition of Out of Office Adventures brings you a new chapter from my solo travel memoir, in which I have a surprise reunion in the middle of the night in Goa.
I've enjoyed White Lotus so far, so I'm looking forward to the next season as well! Adding Koh Samui to my list! :)
I can't wait to go back and visit Thailand one day. Such a cool country! The temples were unlike anything I've ever seen.